Patchouli Noisette by Les Indemodables

WOODY, BALSAMIC

This creation revisits a mythical patchouli. It has been combined with an exclusive ingredient used for the very first time in perfumery: the ultrasound extract of Hazelnut from Piémont Italy designed internally using a 100% green extraction technology, and the world most qualitative origin of hazelnut! An accord which provides a delicate balance between the dark and rough side of patchouli with the incomparable soft praline facets of the hazelnut from Piémont.

Patchouli oil ‘Grand Cru’ Aceh Indonesia & Sri Lanka 35%
Hazelnut ‘Grand Cru’ Piémont Italy ultrasound 20%ETOH 8%

Precious ingredient: Ambre gris 10%

Perfumer: Antoine Lie

Family: Woody, Balsamic

50 ml. Eau de Parfum, 1 ml. spray sample

Grand Cru = of the highest quality

More about Patchouli:

The brief: patchouli in an overdose like never before!

Valérie Pulvérail, the founder of the brand, explains the creative and technical challenge behind this new creation: ‘Antoine and I dreamed of working with patchouli in an ultra-contemporary way, while staying away from the classic ‘chypre’ scheme, and associating it with a totally new natural extract that could harmonize and balance the dark and sometimes quite brutal facets of patchouli’. Looking at the classics of perfumery, it is clear that few have used patchouli in such overdose, and this isprobably the main interest of this new fragrance: to bring back to the forefront a mythical ingredient that is so difficult to tame in high concentration! Antoine Lie continues: ‘ Patchouli is a unique and indispensable ingredient that has been used for decades in the composition of many perfumes. It is often used in a touch to accentuate and accord, or in larger proportions in ‘chypre’ structures, or more recently to enhance gourmand proposals’.

Patchouli: a selection of identified terroirs, labeled as 'Grand Crus’.

The world's largest producer is Indonesia, and all perfumers source from there, unfortunately with poor quality. The reason for this is that the industry is controlled by a handful of traders who mix essential oil batches from many regions, produced by thousands of small 'bush' distillers who neither have the expertise nor the equipment to produce a quality oil.

The 2 'Grand Crus' used in this creation come from selected terroirs:

• In Indonesia, in the Aceh region of North Sumatra: a partnership has been established with

an NGO that works with a local community and thus benefits from technical support and stainless stills to offer an impeccable quality product.

• In Sri Lanka, a very atypical, small and confidential production has caught the attention of

Antoine Lie, master perfumer behind the creation of this fragrance.

The ultrasonic Piedmont hazelnut extract: a world first!

Rémi Pulvérail, founder of Atelier Français des Matières, talks about the origin of this extract: ‘It is a major breakthrough as, for the first time, we have developed a natural extract of hazelnut with an olfactory profile faithful to the best pralines. Until now, perfumers only had synthetic alternatives available to formulate fragrances. And we didn’t do half things, as we sourced the world's best quality hazelnut, exclusively used by the greatest pastry chefs due to its cost and rarity: the famous Piedmont hazelnut!’

L'Atelier Français des Matières embarked on the crazy project of developing this extract thanks to its partnership with a renowned French chocolatier who makes his own praline using this prestigious hazelnut origin. After 10 months of laboratory trials and using its ecological and ultrasound-optimized plant extraction technology, this extract finally became a reality! Antoine Lie adds, "This product perfectly transcribes the natural smell of roasted hazelnuts, reminiscent of praline without being too sweet. It is a very addictive note that makes your mouth water: its complexity and subtlety are surprising and replace the synthetic ingredients usually used to represent this smell with simple, symbolic and cold technical notes, quite far from the smell of roasted hazelnuts.”

Antoine unveils his sources of inspiration: ‘I grew up surrounded by the scents of Gentleman by Givenchy that my father wore, and this fragrance represents for me the ultimate reference in pure patchouli perfume. This juice can be described as a reinterpretation of this iconic fragrance, with an overdose of 2 ‘Grands Crus’ qualities of Patchouli (35% in the formula) combined with an hazelnut extract from Piedmont, Italy produced through the ultrasonic technology, used for the first time ever in perfumery and in a significant proportion (8% in the formula). The combination of the roasted/cereal notes of hazelnut with the woody and vibrant strength characteristic of patchouli reveals an innovative and addictive olfactory architecture that is very surprising: this creation presents patchouli from another angle, both more contemporary and unisex.

’In house & ‘Grands Crus’ extracts:

# Patchoulis Aceh & Sri Lanka essential oils: 35 % :

# Hazelnut Piémont Italy ultrasound extract: 8%"